Umu Ti — The Sacred Fire of Polynesia
Every year, on the eve of the Heiva festivities, Tahua Raymond Teriierooiterai Graffe leads the ancestral ceremony of the Umu Ti.
For more than 60 years, this unique ritual has gathered hundreds of spectators, captivated by the spiritual power of firewalking and by the intensity of a heritage that remains untouched.
Originally, the umu ti had a vital purpose: to cook the roots of ti (auti, cordyline) in a great stone oven so they could be preserved during the dry season of Matari’i i Raro. These reserves sustained Polynesian communities in times of scarcity. Yet beyond survival, the umu ti was always a sacred offering to nature and to the gods.
Before each ceremony, Raymond Teriierooiterai Graffe retreats to the mountains. He fasts, gathers the sacred auti leaves, meditates, and pays homage to the ancestors. This period of solitude and reflection opens him to the presence of the spirits and mana, the sacred lifeforce essential to the success of the firewalk.
The Polynesian lunar calendar dictates the date.
At dawn, the firepit is prepared: an 8-meter trench filled with tamanu wood, covered with volcanic stones that heat until dusk.
The ceremony begins with incantatory chants and dances. The priest sweeps the glowing stones with sacred auti leaves before inviting participants to cross.
Each step on the embers is a rite of purification. The fire consumes impurities and offers rebirth, a renewal of energy for body, spirit, and community.
This ritual carries no risk, provided its rules are respected:
- No alcohol since the day before
- Women during their menstrual cycle may attend but must not cross
- Once you begin walking, never turn back
Umu ti is a living and intact tradition.
Firewalking is the only Polynesian cultural practice that has never been altered by Western influence. It stands as proof of the enduring mana, the presence of the gods, and the continuity of the ancestors walking alongside the living.
To witness or to take part in the umu ti is an intense experience, a sacred passage that connects earth, Te Papa and sky, Te Ra’i, awakening the inner light within.
Source: Tahiti Héritage / Raymond Teeriierooiterai Graffe
Photo credit: Steve Kuo
